Tubular k member mustang install

Remember, the column retracts and makes this easy if you had spread the brass connector in the earlier removal step. Clean up the connector parts and put a tad of grease and it should slip right on.

Make sure it is on all the way and then tighten it. Finish tightening up the two mounts for the steering rack, again taking care that these are tightened correctly. These will have their own instructions.

The k-member came with two thick washers and 4 large normal thickness washers. The two thick ones are used on the new ball joint threaded stud. Insert a arm stud into spindle, put the thick washer on the stud, and then start the new cotter pin styled bolt on that. Screw the nut down to where the cotter pin hole shows through the nut on the a arm ball joint and see if it is loose or tight at that point.

It needs to be tight! Use the additional washers under the nut if necessary so that the nut is tight before you put the cotter pin in. Mine needed three extra washers on each side to be nice and tight. Screw in the zert fitting provided for these joints underneath and tighten accordingly.

This is a good time to grease them because you still have lots of room to workl. Use axle grease. Now connect the control arm to the front side of the spindle and start the old cotter pin styled nut on that. Go ahead and tighten it down. If you do this then use the zert and pump them up with fresh axle grease.

Make sure you have the spacers you want placed on the strut before inserting it into the strut tower. Start a nut on top of the CCs to keep the strut in place. Now, lift the spindle assembly up and line up the mounting holes with the strut and get a bolt in. This will hold it now and make it easy to insert the second bolt. These are also the original mounting bolts you removed earlier. There is also a brake line mount that attaches to these bolts.

Make sure everything is tight, cotter pins are in properly and ball joints greased. Now you can reinstall the calipers and rotors. NOTE: Now is also a great time to pop the cap off the end of the spindle and pack grease into the wheel bearing.

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Email Required. Review Subject Required. Comments Required. You save. Add Bumpsteer Kit? Racecraft's K-members are second to none for fit and finish.

Mustang K-Members are the industry standard when it come to fit, finish, and design. Every K-Member is constructed out of The race k-member is designed to fit all Mustangs and is the lightest k-member we offer. Along with being lightweight, it has also been With our wheels back on, we headed for the alignment rack.

With the Mustang up on the rack, we lifted the front end of the car back up and started taking measurements. Basically, we wanted to make sure the wheel was centered in the wheel well as well as make sure the new K-member was perfectly square in the car. After double-checking and making sure everything was perfectly aligned, we went ahead and torqued down the K-member bolts for the final time.

The last step was to reinstall the sway bar end links, followed by a proper alignment of the front wheels with the new K-member and coil-overs. Remember to tighten down the control arm bolts with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground now too.

If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a ring at or shoot us an email. Skip to main content Skip to footer. Removing the Old K-Member The first step is to disconnect the battery along with unbolting the alternator and swinging that out of the way. Struts for Coil-Overs After removing the wheels and getting the car into the air, we went ahead and loosened the top of the struts and fully removed the sway bar end links.